What to See, Eat, and Experience in Jordan’s Capital
The first smell that greeted me in Amman was tobacco. The second, aftershave. Both hit differently after twenty-four hours of recycled airplane air. Maybe that’s why I welcomed them so much, or maybe it’s just the nostalgic traveler in me, tuned to the familiar scents of smoke and cologne that still linger in places like Japan, Vietnam, Paris, and Lebanon.
As cities in this venerable part of the world go, Amman is relatively young, having developed mostly in the 20th century. Driving in along the desert highway, the city’s outskirts give off a surprising touch of resort-town ease—cafés, palm-lined boulevards, and polished storefronts set against a desert backdrop. But the comparison ends there.
Amman quickly transports you into something else entirely: a desert city both relevant and ancient, where people go out of their way to help you and thank you for visiting. A place rooted in some of the earliest chapters of civilization, yet sharing a hospitality that feels like the best of what humanity has to offer.
A mix of scents curls through the air wherever you go—woven into cafés, drifting out of taxis, carried on the desert breeze.
Amman, the “White City,” sprawls across its hills (eight, to be precise), carved directly from the desert. It’s a place layered with history stretching back thousands of years, yet alive with the energetic pulse of a city growing on the back of a tourist route that pulls travelers toward Jordan’s natural and man-made wonders. Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, and even the Red Sea tend to steal the spotlight—but Amman is worth its own day (or more). Its neighborhoods cascade up and down the arid hillsides, each carrying a different rhythm and shade.
“Halas” (okay) is a word you’ll hear often, usually followed by “Don’t worry” or “Right away.” “Salam” (peace) and “Alaikoum” (upon you), used casually, still echo a deep sense of welcome everywhere.
Though at times a maze of hidden streets and stairwells, navigating Amman is easy enough—its eight traffic circles form a natural route through the city.
As you travel through the day, the light changes—yellow and red at dawn, bleached beige in the midday sun, blue-gold in late afternoon, then pink-grey at dusk. And dusk here? Few places in the world do it better than the Gulf.
The city is busy, but never overwhelming—nothing like the chaos of Istanbul or Beirut. Flowers spill over fences and walls, softening the edges. It’s a place where smoking a cigarette is still seemingly treated as a ritual—stitched into the art of living.
And yes, Jordan has four true seasons.
Morning
Move Your Body
For me, no city visit feels complete without a jog through the streets or a lift at a local gym. Running in Amman is part stair-master, part roller-coaster, but it’s also transcendent: a way to feel the city waking up with you, breath syncing with the morning air.
Al-Hussein Park and Dabouq is your best bet if you want space. Its The main loop is about 4.5 km, with options to extend by running through adjacent Dabouq’s streets with pavement a little more maintained than the side streets and alleyways (granted exploring those are part of the fun).
I also dropped into Apollo Gym—set atop one of Amman’s higher rises, with sweeping views of the city. The place has functional equipment for a proper workout, and a smoothie bar on the balcony that almost makes the workout itself feel like part of a city tour. At Apollo, the staff were disarmingly kind—proof that not every walk-in gym greets you like you’ve interrupted their lunch break.
If you’re looking for recovery, the Ritz’s Water Reflections Spa has a cold plunge worth the visit and the Intercontinental has a 90-degree sauna.
Coffee Culture
Like everywhere else in the world, coffee is, well, everywhere here. Some cups are excellent, some are just fuel—but either way, you won’t go without. Most hotels I popped into keep high-octane Turkish coffee (and dates) ready for guests in the lobby. Granted, this duo tends to get things moving—metabolically speaking.
One standout is Almond House. The other is Manara arts & culture. It’s part student hub, part expat café, with a digital-nomad vibes. Great views, good coffee, and enough cool and calm to make it a spot for reading or working a bit.
Exploring Amman
It’s hot (though Jordan does have seasons, even snow). Traversing the city’s hills is its own adventure—even without heading into the desert, Amman demands some energy.
Don’t miss the Roman Amphitheater, Al Rainbow Street (with its murals from the city’s street art program), official name is Abu Bakr al Siddiq Street, but its more popular “Rainbow” moniker comes from the Rainbow Cinema that once stood on the route.
And Downtown Amman and Al Weibdeh District for true local culture and contemporary art. For luxury shopping, head to Abdoun. You can likely do all these in a day if you don’t linger. If you had to pick just two do Al Rainbow and the Amphitheater.
MidDay
Poolside at the Intercontinental
Slower vibes than your Scottsdale special but well-suited to the business traveler or conference goer—or anyone who just needs a nap by the pool to break up the desert heat.
Food
Al Quds Falafel on Rainbow Street is crisp, tangy, and perfectly pickled. Just down the road, at the Second Circle, you’ll find Shawerma Reem—a no-frills Amman institution. The shawarma here is on another level: juicy, spiced just right, wrapped in warm flatbread and layered with sumac onions, tomatoes, and tahini. If you smile nicely, they might even slip you a few extra slices of beef on the side.
And for something sweet to balance all that savory, take a quick turn off the same traffic circle to Tamreyat Omar, where the people are as warm as the pastries. Here, trays of golden tamreyat (date-filled dough dusted with sugar), knafeh (gooey cheese pastry topped with pistachios), and ma’moul (buttery date cookies) glisten behind glass. It’s the kind of place where you walk in for one bite and leave with a box.
Hospitality runs deep, so don’t expect to tip—it isn’t part of the culture. Service here is its own reward.
Hookah & Shisha
Yes, we’re back to smoking. Don’t judge. Maybe you already have a Zyn tucked away, maybe not—but in Jordan, it’s part of the rhythm of life. Sit down with a mint tea or smoothie, order a shisha, and lean into it. As the saying goes: when in Rome, do as the Romans do. And in Jordan, geographically, that fits rather well.
I went to Ropes Restaurant and Cafe which is right beside Almond House Coffee and across the street from Apollo gym. An easy trifecta to visit!
DINNER
I was too full after protein shakes, deserts and Shawarma and the like, but I was strongly encouraged to further stuff myself at Maijana Cafe-Baskets ceiling street.
SPA — Dead Sea Scrub
Since drinking isn’t a big part of the culture, I skipped the nightcap—though you’ll find no shortage of beautiful places to have one. Outside of hotel bars, The Regency and The Ritz top the list, while District Urban Rooftop (near the Second Circle—by now, probably your Amman haunt) and Dunia Rooftop offer laid-back views and a lively local mix.
Instead, I opted for a trip to the spa.
If you can’t—or didn’t—make it to the Dead Sea for some healing zouh zouh, bring the experience to Amman. In keeping with the “when in Rome” theme, the Intercontinental Hotel Spa offers a Jordanian Deluxe Treatment: a full immersion in mineral-rich muds and Dead Sea salts that leaves you floating for a blissful two and a half hours.
Onward
24 hours is never enough. And as the saying goes, khitāmuhā misk—the end is musk, or “the end is fragrant like musk.”
But it’s not the musk of aftershave, sweet shops, spices, or hookah. It’s something else entirely.
It’s the people. It’s the quiet warmth that reaches beyond the desert heat. It’s that Amman isn’t quite what you expect and that’s exactly what makes it linger. Sweet. Subtle. Impossible to forget.
A special thanks at Faeq Ashi at Wassleh Creative Solutions for taking me around Amman and showing me the place he loves !
